Nickel A Dance

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Weather, that gripping saga of television, radio and barroom, can blow away festivals, and flood routes home. It can swirl breezes along The River as ominously as the sky in a van Gogh painting, and it can blow in from The Gulf of Mexico bringing something as nasty as Hurricane Ivan or pleasant as a dry-air romp in the park. It can push muggy air up and down all the rues and outlet routes of Town. Then dry cold fingers can curl the damp air and lick at our ankles as we walk the levee envying the ships headed out to Sea.

Fall weather brings the long awaited end of Hurricane Season, and a mythic dance named "Nickel A Dance," held every Sunday in October and November, 4 p.m., at Café Brazil, rue Frenchmen. It is called Nickel A Dance in memory of a yesteryear when men might pay a nickel and take a dance with their lady of choice.

"It was cheaper'n marriage," L. A. Norma told a buxom youth.

"And longer lasting, sometimes, too" replied the youth.

In repetitious New Orleans' speak, Nickel A Dance is often referred to as "dat Nickel A Dance dance." Whatever you call it, it is great and open to the public, but no tour-ticket packages are sold. In fact, no one sells tickets at all. However, there is a cash bar.

"Youth and libation must be served," L. A. Norma said to the bartender.

Nickel A Dance is something like an Elks Club dance were the Elks Club in question populated with soulful souls like us. A lady in a blue dress and holding a small blue umbrella patted her forehead with a white second-line handkerchief and danced with a support pillar. A younger man stepped forward and the two undulated off across the floor. Another couple put their foreheads together and walked back and forth like crazed Tango dancers. We sat at the bar sipping Medicinal Red, and gyrating with them. L. A. Norma swayed with the music spinning the room. Children and parents swung their arms and laughed.

Music, thy elfin muse, what a life affirming effect you have. Not to mention the powers of Medicinal Red!

Nickel a Dance is a City treasure, Café Brazil its vortex. It is a spirited thing -- even a spiritual one -- like those first Congo Square Jazz Fests, or jam-sessions in the sky. It draws old folks from the corner highrise and young folks with children. It brings music makers (we met Kermit Ruffins there last Sunday), high rollers from uptown, and storybook fakers from every way the wind blows. It is not to be missed.

The coming dance card: October 24, Evan Christopher & Clarinet Road; October 31, Lionel Ferbos & the Palm Court Jazz Band; November 7, Preservation Hall Hot Four; November 14, Jack Maheu & the Fire in the Pet Shop Callithumpian Jazz Band; November 21, Walter Payton's Filét Gumbo with Al Carson.

Thank you to the sponsors: City of New Orleans, The Jazz Centennial Celebration, Civil Sheriff Paul Valteau Jr. & Deputies Assn., d.b.a., Dorian M. Bennett Realtors Inc., French Quarter Realty, Celia & Jeff Collins, Café Brazil, Faubourg Marigny Improvement Association, Louisiana Music Factory, 13 Monaghan Bar & Restaurant, Samara Poche & Gary Frankston, Mona's Café & Deli, Palm Court Jazz Café, Café Rose Nicaud, Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro, Offbeat Magazine and a group of anonymous jazz fans. Thank you.